Build book

Russell Glow

A Gladiator costume rebuilt as a light source: a fibre-optic mohawk, an infinity-mirror shield, 2,200 hand-linked scales, and roughly 10,000 rhinestones, walked two miles of Mardi Gras parade on a baritone saxophone.

The full costume worn in a darkened room, helmet, scale vest, bracers, and kilt all lit in shifting rainbow colour.

01 Build book

Inspiration

Maximus Decimus Meridius — Gladiator (2000), Russell Crowe.

Started as
A scale maille vest backed with LEDs
Built for
The 8-Bit Brass Band
Debut
A 2-mile Mardi Gras parade, on baritone sax

I did not start with the intention to make Russell Glow. I have been making chainmaille and scale maille for 16 years and I have always wanted to make a scale maille vest backed with LEDs. Once I joined the 8-Bit Brass Band I needed to come up with some cosplay for our performances.

Film still of Maximus in a spiked Roman helmet and pauldron, eyes shadowed behind the visor.
The source silhouette: a spiked Roman helmet with a hard brow line, which the leather shell keeps and the fibre optics interrupt.

Source Gladiator (2000), dir. Ridley Scott — DreamWorks Pictures / Universal Pictures. Reference image.

Film still of Maximus raising a sword, his breastplate embossed with two rearing horses.
The breastplate horses that end up on the bracers, because the vest had to stay clear to let the light out.

Source Gladiator (2000), dir. Ridley Scott — DreamWorks Pictures / Universal Pictures. Reference image.

This costume was originally designed for a Mardi Gras parade that I attended down in New Orleans, where I walked the entire 2 mile parade with this costume while performing on a baritone saxophone.

02 Build book

Helmet

Paper pattern to fibre-optic mohawk, and the hexagon that took over the costume.

Rhinestones in the face
1,500
Rhinestones in the costume
~10,000, hand placed
Lights under the horns
10

I started with a simple helmet pattern that I made out of paper and duct tape, and then transferred to veg tan leather and hand stitched together. The base was painted and hand stamped with a hexagon pattern that became a running theme throughout the entire costume.

Two hand-stitched veg tan leather helmet halves resting on a green cutting mat beside dividers and a steel rule.
Both halves cut and hand stitched in veg tan, still undyed.

I created a channel out of diffuser that fit the shape of the helmet and filled it with epoxy and fiber optic cables. The fiber optics were then hand cut to shape into a mohawk. I left a small channel underneath that allows me to slip LED strips underneath, and left access in the back to allow for replacements as needed. I added a loop of leather for anchoring the power cable in case it gets caught, to prevent ripping out the controller and soldering contacts.

The leather helmet on a foam head form at the bench while a fibre-optic mohawk channel is fitted to its crown.
Fitting the epoxy-and-fibre-optic channel to the crown. The strip slides in underneath, so a dead LED never means cutting the mohawk off.

The face plate was cut using a jigsaw out of a flat piece of acrylic then heat shaped to fit the profile. I lined the sides with LEDs so the light would bounce through the acrylic and give the entire face a rainbow glow. Aurora Borealis rhinestones with clear backs were added to give it that extra shine. There are approximately 10,000 hand placed rhinestones in the entire costume, with 1,500 of them in the face alone.

Wearing the painted helmet in the workshop, holding the clear acrylic face plate up against it, LED tubes glowing on the bench behind.
The heat-formed face plate held against the painted shell before stoning.

All the wiring is contained inside the helmet with leather covers to protect the more sensitive components. There are 10 individual lights placed under the horns. Each horn was 3D printed and stitched onto the top.

The inside of the helmet, showing wired LED nodes, padded rests, and nylon strapping across the leather shell.
Inside the shell — nodes, padding, and leather covers over the fragile joints.
Close-up of the helmet crown: hexagon stamping across black leather, one printed horn, and the rhinestoned edge of the face plate.
The hexagon stamp, a stitched-on printed horn, and the rhinestoned edge of the face plate, all in one corner.

I didn't have much of a plan for the entire costume from the start. It was organic decisions like the UV reactive hexagons and the rhinestones, discovered during my initial helmet build, that propagated through the rest of my build.

The finished helmet on a stand in the dark, its fibre-optic mohawk washed in rainbow light and its horns glowing green.
The helmet finished and lit, with every decision that spread to the rest of the costume already in it.

03 Build book

LED and Scalemaille Vests

Four mirrored light panels underneath, 2,200 scales on top.

Lights in the undervest
400+, hand stitched
Metal scales
~2,200
Rings
~8,000, one at a time

The LED undervest has over 400 lights that were hand stitched into four panels, two on the front and two on the back. Mirroring the layouts this way made it easier to program interesting patterns into the lights. For this competition I used off the shelf controllers for ease and interchangeability, but I am experimenting with programming my own for coordinating my costume with songs for my band.

A black vest panel laid flat with rows of LED nodes hand-stitched into a serpentine, wired and marked out in chalk.
One panel part-stitched. The serpentine keeps the run continuous and the mirrored layout keeps the patterns cheap to write.

The vest has two large leather pouches for holding the power banks. One drives the vest and the other drives the helmet and kilt. When the vest is on it is hard to reach the batteries, so I included a switch for disabling the lights to give the batteries a break. I am using these batteries for far more than they are intended. In the event of a catastrophic failure — read fire (has not happened yet, but I was a boy scout) — I would not be able to reach the batteries quickly, so I added flaps with snaps on the bottom to dump out the batteries.

The vest opened flat, showing two leather power-bank pouches with snap flaps, battery packs, wiring, and an inline switch.
Both power banks in their pouches, with the inline switch and the snap flaps that drop a battery on the floor rather than keep it against my back.

The top of the vest consists of around 2200 metal scales and 8000 rings that were each added one at a time with pliers. I trimmed the scales with kingsmaille and handmade toggles using custom jigs that I create out of wood blocks and steel rods. It was important to tailor fit the shoulders, otherwise the weight of the vest would be unbearable after a short period of time. I had to invent my own expansion pattern to allow for shaping the scales around my shoulders without splitting for seams or introducing a different pattern.

Extreme close-up of blackened kingsmaille, its rings woven tight over overlapping metal scales.
Kingsmaille trim at ring scale, blackened against the raw scales.
The scale maille vest closed at the chest, LED light glowing up through silver scales along a kingsmaille centre strip.
The closure lit from behind — the scales are opaque, so all the colour arrives through the gaps.
The full costume worn in a darkened room, helmet, scale vest, bracers, and kilt all lit in shifting rainbow colour.
Helmet, vest, bracers, and kilt running together for the first time.

04 Build book

Shield

A donated spartan shield, stripped to steel and rebuilt around an infinity mirror.

Donor
A friend's spartan shield, stripped to mild steel
Mirror mount
6 interlocking printed sections
Sword switching
Magnetic reed, cuts both pieces

I started with an old spartan shield that a friend donated. I cut a hole for the mirrors and stripped several pounds of plastic off the metal, leaving behind a circular sheet of mild steel.

The shield face down on the bench, its hexagon-stamped leather scorched and burnished, the printed ring waiting alongside.
The face after stamping and burning, with the printed ring waiting alongside.

I designed and 3D printed six interlocking sections that bolt together to hold the mirrors and lights to the shield without introducing extra stress to the acrylic. I then hexagon stamped the leather and contact cemented it onto the front of the shield. The infinity mirror is created by separating the back full mirror from the front partial mirror and lining the inside with LEDs. The light bounces between the mirrors giving the tunnel effect. It's important to have lights between the two mirrors, otherwise the outer mirror will mostly reflect the observer instead of the internal space.

The shield stripped to bare steel on the workbench, its printed black ring sections bolted into the leather-edged rim.
The printed ring bolted down to bare steel. Nothing clamps the acrylic itself.
The finished shield on the bench with its infinity mirror lit, concentric rainbow rings receding into the centre.
The tunnel, lit. The gap between the two mirrors is the whole trick.

I cut a piece of oak and shaped some angled offsets to mount the arm bracket across the shield. It was important to stand this off the mirror assembly so it would not warp or damage the mirrors. The wood was burned and oiled.

Holding the back of the shield in the shop, showing the oak arm bracket standing off the mirror assembly on black offsets.
The oak bracket on its offsets, carrying the arm load around the mirrors rather than through them.

I added a leather back plate to the mirror assembly as well as an arm strap, scabbard, and battery pack holder. The top portion of the scabbard was modeled and 3D printed. I embedded magnets and magnetic reed switches in both the sword and shield. These disengage the electronics when the sword is sheathed, disabling the lights in both pieces.

The back of the shield with the sword sheathed in its scabbard across the burnt oak arm bracket.
Sword sheathed, both circuits open. Putting it away is the off switch.

05 Build book

Sword

An acrylic core, laminated printed panels, and a pound of lead.

Core
Acrylic, with printed PLA diffusion panels
Hilt ballast
1 lb of lead
Hilt also holds
Battery, controller, reed switch

The sword has an acrylic core with 3D printed white PLA panels to allow for light diffusion. All the pieces were laminated together leaving a channel on either side to allow LEDs to slip down the blade.

Sword components laid out on the bench: printed white blade panels, the clear acrylic core, offcuts, and a hacksaw.
Every part of the blade before lamination, laid out along the acrylic core.
Two thin acrylic strips standing on edge in the channel between white printed blade panels during lamination.
The channel the strips slide into, held open during lamination.

The blade was sanded down to remove print lines and clear coated.

Holding the finished sword upright in the workshop, its blade lit in bands of rainbow colour.
Lit on the bench, print lines sanded out so the diffusion reads as one surface.
The sword lit in a dark room, colour running the length of the blade from magenta at the hilt to blue at the tip.
The same blade in the dark, which is the only place it has to work.

The hilt holds a battery pack and the controller as well as the magnetic reed switch that connects with the shield. The hilt has one pound of lead to help improve the sword's balance. The handle is wrapped in leather.

Close-up of the sword hilt: a rhinestoned hexagonal pommel and guard block above a cross-wrapped leather grip.
Stoned pommel and guard over a cross-wrapped grip, with the ballast hidden inside.

06 Build book

Kilt

Reversible leather, with the light pointed down instead of out.

Construction
Leather panels, wires sandwiched between layers
Reversible
Silver metallic, or rainbow and lights
Light direction
Underglow, deliberately

The kilt is made out of leather panels. The top layer is a silver metallic finished leather and the back is painted veg tan leather. I ran strings of LEDs down each panel, sandwiching the wires between the layers of leather.

Kilt panels laid out in two sets, one painted in rainbow order and one in silver metallic leather, each trailing its own wires.
Both faces of every panel, painted and metallic, each already trailing its own run.
Silver kilt panels attached along the belt line, with the wiring harness and lever connectors gathered above them.
The harness gathered at the belt line before it disappears between the layers.

The wires were hidden in between the belt layers and connected on one side. The belt was stamped and painted in rainbows to match the lights. I added most of the LEDs to the underside of the kilt to give myself an underglow instead of creating a sheet of blinding lights. I made the kilt reversible so I can switch to the rainbow and lights side to fit my mood.

Two hexagon-stamped leather belts painted with rainbow chevrons, resting across the painted kilt panels.
The belts, stamped and painted to match what the panels do underneath.
The full costume worn in a doorway, the leather kilt lit from beneath by LEDs along its lower edge.
Worn, with the underglow doing its job — the kilt is lit, not glaring.

07 Build book

Bracers, Greaves, and Shoes

Where the film's iconography went, once the vest had to stay clear.

Motif
Maximus's horses, moved to the bracers
Greaves
Rhinestone filigree, after the film's armour
Power
A 9V pouch on the back of each piece

The bracers and greaves are made out of the same leather, stamps and rhinestones as the helmet. In the movie, Maximus describes the horses on his breastplate to the son of Lucilla. I decided to incorporate those horses on my bracers instead, since they are iconic to the character but I didn't want to obstruct the light vest. I also made the rhinestone designs of the greaves pattern after the filigree used in Maximus's armor. I included pouches for 9v batteries on the backs of each piece.

Two greaves and two bracers laid on dark cloth, the greaves in rhinestone filigree and the bracers each carrying a white rearing horse.
Greaves in filigree, bracers carrying the horses the breastplate could not.
The backs of the greaves and bracers showing raw leather linings, hexagon-punched straps, and buckles.
The backs — linings, punched straps, and buckles, where the fit actually lives.
Close-up of a leather pouch on the back of a bracer holding a 9-volt battery under a snap flap.
A 9V under a snap flap, so a dead piece is a thirty-second fix.

The shoes were purchased in a roman style brown leather. I added the same hexagon stamps and painted them silver with white and UV lines. I also added a few rhinestones for continuity.

Roman-style leather sandals in progress on a workbench, hexagon-stamped straps painted silver and laid out beside them.
Bought sandals, stamped and painted to match everything else.
The finished sandals, their silver hexagon-stamped straps set with small clusters of rhinestones.
Finished, with just enough stones to belong to the same costume.

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